Traditional Darkovan Clothing

Traditional Darkovan clothing for women varies from Commoner to Comyn of course.

Dress, Tunic Cloak First of all, I want to give a very easy pattern you can try. It's more of a Comyn lady's dress, but can be varied easily.

Comyn Lady's Dress

Measure your body from neck to ancle. What you need is a piece of fabric twice that long. Fabrics in Germany come either 140 or 150cm wide. The length then, should be about 3m to 3m50 long, depending on your height.
The pattern is so easy that it hardly needs explaining. You fold the fabric along its length, (1) so now it is 150cm wide and reaches from your neck to your ancles.

Measure around the widest point of your breast, devide by two and add 10-15cm (about 65cm in my case).
Now, heft it together with some needles and draw a line as pictured in (2). Cut along that line to seperate the arms from the bodice. Make sure you have about 20cm left on the top, where your armpits will be, and in the middle leave the 65 cm you calculated for the bossom so it won't be too tight later.
Now sew the seam that closes the arms (from wrist to armpit) and then the seams that close the skirt and bodice at the sides (that'll be one seam above and one blow the line you drew).
Next, cut only the front of the dress like (3) from bottom to top. Make the neck line as narrow as possible. It'll become wider when you seam.

And that's the last thing to do: Seam. The arms, the skirt, the neck. Turn over and there you go: A perfect medieval... err... Darkovan dress. Very propper for a lady.
Needless to say, you can enhance this by adding fur, lace, embroidery, etc. You can also apply a lining. You should know that beforehand though. For a lining perform all steps like above (i.e. make one more dress with the lining fabric) but do not seam the arms, skirt etc. Sew the two dresses together wrong side out. Before sewing the skirt hem, turn the dress over and sew from the right side.
Bind the waist with a girdle or belt

Easy, huh? I wish I'd discovered that one earlier!

The following can be adjusted to your needs by designing different sleeves and bonnets or embroidering, or by choosing crude or expensive materials. Originally, though, it's a peasant's dress.

Tunic

You'll need about 200 x 200cm white or off-white cotton for the under tunic. The over tunic can be any material you like. Remember that bright colors were not available to simple folk. Choose something brownish or duller than the modern colors. Samples at the side may illustrate what I mean.
For Comyn the over tunic could be blue or red velvet and the under tunic would have the wide sleeve variety.

The bonnet will either be a "handkerchief" fastened with a ribbon in the neck or a tube of fabric or two fabrics, wound to a circle and decorated with a veil. The veil can either be worn down the neck or around the chin.

 

Sew both parts of the over tunic together at the shoulders. You can sew some filt under the shoulders to make them stand better.
Punch holes in the sides. Four or five on each side should do. Start below the breast and end above the hips. A string can adjust the tunic to any waist width.

The under tunic is a little more tricky. The easy way is to cut two rectangles with at least 100cm width and the length from your shoulder to the bottom. (ca. 170cm). Cut out the collar (as small as possible), then sew the shoulders together.
Sew a hem into which you insert a string to the inside of the collar.
Sew a stripe of fabric to the waist so you can insert a rubber band to hold the dress tight at your waist.
Add the sleeves after you have sewed both parts of each sleeve together.
Finally, cut the skirt to length and seam the whole thing.
You can tighten the shoulders by running a threat through the top line and gathering the fabric by drawing the string tight.

 

Cloak

Here is another easy-made cloak with big effect.
Cut a rectangle from the fabric, about as high as the distance from your shoulders to your toes and about 2m wide. Fold 45cm on each side to the middle. That will leave an opening of about 20cm at the front. Sew the shoulders. Take a needle with a sturdy string and pull it through the shoulder. draw the string together so the cloak will fall in folds around your shoulders.
To finish, let a friend cut the cloak to it's final length and seam it. You could decorate the hemline with fur or lace, too.